Auto Loan Calculator
Trade-in, sales tax, real monthly.
Drop in the price, your trade-in value, sales-tax rate, and dealer fees. We'll show the financed amount, monthly payment, total cost, and warn you if the loan is upside down at signing.
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Approval Odds & Expected Rate
—How This Calculator Works
The auto loan calculator runs three layers of math. First, it nets your trade-in against the price to determine the taxable basis. Then it applies your local sales-tax percentage to that basis, adds dealer/DMV fees, subtracts your cash down, and arrives at the amount financed. Finally it amortizes that financed amount at your rate over your term using the standard fixed-rate formula.
Trade-In and Sales Tax
In most US states, the dealer subtracts your trade-in value from the price before calculating sales tax. On a $38,000 vehicle with a $10,000 trade-in at 6.5% sales tax, you save 6.5% × $10,000 = $650 in tax. That's why selling your old car privately for slightly more than the trade-in offer often nets out the same — the tax savings on a trade-in are real money. States that tax the full purchase price regardless: California, Hawaii, Maryland, Michigan, Virginia, and a handful of others.
The Upside-Down Trap
If LTV at signing is over 100%, you're upside down the moment you drive off the lot. New cars depreciate 15–25% in the first year, so a 90% LTV today becomes 110% in 12 months. If you total the car, gap insurance covers the difference — only if you bought it. If you want to sell or refinance, you'll owe the difference out of pocket. The fix: 10%+ down on new, 20%+ on used, and never roll negative equity from a previous loan into a new one.
How Long Should the Term Be?
Industry data shows 39% of new auto loans now stretch 72 months or longer. The math is awful. A $35,000 loan at 8% over 36 months: $1,096/mo, $4,500 total interest. The same loan over 72 months: $613/mo, $9,150 total interest. You pay twice the interest for the privilege of a lower monthly. The only legitimate reason to go beyond 60 months is if the longer term is the difference between getting reliable transportation and not — and even then, refinance the moment your credit or rates improve.
New vs. Used vs. Lease
- New: Best warranty, worst depreciation. The financial hit of years 1 and 2 is roughly 30% of the purchase price.
- 2–3 year used: The financial sweet spot. Someone else absorbed the depreciation cliff. Certified pre-owned often comes with extended warranty.
- Lease: Lower monthly, but you own nothing at the end. Makes sense if you write off the payment as a business expense or genuinely want a new car every 3 years.
Frequently Asked Questions
Should I take the dealer's financing or my own pre-approval?
Both. Walk in with a credit-union or bank pre-approval as your floor. Dealers often have access to manufacturer-subsidized rates (especially 0% promos on year-end inventory) that beat anything you can get yourself. If they can beat your pre-approval, take it. If not, you have leverage.
What credit score do I need for a good auto rate?
720+ usually unlocks the best advertised rates. 660–719 lands in the middle (you'll pay 1–3 points more). Below 660, expect 12%+ APR. Below 580, subprime rates of 18–25% are common.
Should I buy gap insurance?
Yes if you're putting less than 20% down or financing for 72+ months. The depreciation curve guarantees you'll be upside down for the first 18+ months.